Few things to know

Snowbirdxx

Well-Known Member
Did you all know that the Husky starts on the LH mag only when you turn the key to start? The ignition switch, when wired correctly, is grounding the RH mag, which has no Impulse, till you release the key to both. Thats why you should use the LH mag only when handpropping.



Did you know that a clean trim speed of about 70 mph results in no further trim changes when deploying flaps to end up with the right approach speed? Start figuring the right trim speed for your plane and no more trimming is needed . Some planes have that sweet number at 68 some at 72, figure it out for your dog.


Did you know that on the stock exhaust on the 180hp engine, the cabin heat can be increased by sealing the shroud to the exhaustoutlet by clamping an extra baffle that fits the outlet to the shroud?


Did you know that rudder and elevator travel can be inceased by adjusting the stop screw? On the rudder this will fix the geomety of releasing the steering mechanism when pushing the rudder. This reduced loads on the tailwheel and rudderarm. In addition rudder authority on a slip is increased.


Did you know that Idle mixture needs to be checked when starting winter ops. Here is the procedure: Have the engine warm on idle, then pull the carb heat. If RPMs decrease, ok. If RPM raise DO NOT FLY, you are then running idle on the lean side of peak. Adjust befor you fly by turning the idle mixture screw out. Its best reached with the mixture set Rich. No lower cowl removal needed.


Did you know that the lower cowl on the Husky cracks on the rear top end where the countersunck screw is? Either leave that screw out or , on the next cowl removal, outdrill the countersunk hole in the cowl to about 10mm and use a Tinnerman washer when reinstalling.


Did you know that the Huskys Brake fluid reservoirs are way to small for thr dual caliper brakes? They need to be refilled constantly, while brakepads are getting thinner. If a brake gets soft, there is air in the system. No problem, if you have a small bottle of brake fluid with you and a a scringe. Press the calipers against the brakediscs. This will pust the pistons in the calipers and the fluid with the air into the brake cylinder. Have a helper wath till the fluid comes out of the venthole on top of the cylinder. Then unscew the filler hole and start slowly pumping the brake. As you see the fluidlevel going down, refill with the scringe. Do that till the brake gets hard. If no brakefluid in the field is available, you can use engineoil. Then the whole systen once home again should be flushed, and refilled.


Did you know that when flying on final approach and chopping the power without changing attitude, that you increase AOA quite a bit? Especially with the MT with blades set to a low low pitch stop.


Feel free to add items to this post
 
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Thanks for the pointers Tom. I was coming to the same conclusion on Trim as your suggestion... I slow to 70 and trim, then put 10 flaps out.... don't seem to need to trim after that. I appreciate this! I'm going to check out the rudder and elevator travel adjustment!

I think you mean 'Chopping' the power without changing attitude increases AOA 'quite' a bit. Makes total sense.

gunny
 

Snowbirdxx

Well-Known Member
You may increase elevator up travel on the screw of the rear stickhousing. Trim all the way back and unscrew the stopbolt till you can not hit the bolt with the stick any more, then turn it back in till it hits. that´s may elevator Up travel. Rudder is self explanatory. Just don´t let the rudder hit the elevator.
 
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