Sounds great, I’d like to see a sketch of that redesigned air box when you get the time. Good luck with the O390, look forward to your reports.Oryx; I don't think inlet area is the issue. I've not done any numbers for the Husky but I have for other aircraft and the requisite inlet area is surprisingly smaller than you may think.
I'm eager to see if Dogday gets some CFD data and what it will show. From my experience the issue lies in little to no volume of undisturbed air in the plenum the carb draws from. In my designs I maximized this volume and did away with the carb heat flapper that effectively forms a ramp into the carb throat. I instead worked a carb heat inlet at the rear of the newly formed and increased plenum. It would be a fun thing to build.
But I'm still figuring out how to get a fuel injected 390 in my Husky.
Dogday,In 2017 I made a crude CFD model of Husky's air box (see attached sketch) to see if there was a simple fix such as installing turning vanes to resolve the uneven flow distribution to my carburetor. I could only find a slight improvement in flow distribution with the installation of turning vanes due to the space constraints within the air box. The problematic flow can be resolved, but it will take more than turning vanes in the existing box.
I will be ending my day job in a few months and with my new semiretired lifestyle beginning, I will have more time to pursue my curiosities.
My effort was looking at the uneven air and fuel flow that comes with the stock 180 hp air box. The air box problem was the lack of symmetry in air flow approaching the carb along with the carb's throttle plate interaction. I tried to design a fix that would be limited to the inside of the stock air box such that the average A&P/IA could not easily spot the modification during an annual inspection.Dog
Dogday,
Checking in to see if you’ve had a chance to do any work on the air box? At least 3 people have mentioned plans to build or modify one and I’d like to keep that mod a priority. Keep us posted.
One question that stands out for me is exactly why when leaning the carb, adding a little carb heat, makes my EGTs even out. I think that it is a combination of better atomization along with the opposing air flow directions that evens out the EGTs; however, I don't know which is the major contributor for what I see. BTW I think that running partial carb heat is a bad idea due to induction pulses vibrating the diverter plate causing its bearings to prematurely wear.
Mike,The consensus of the Advance Pilot Seminar folks in Ada was better atomization accounted for the improved ability to run carbureted engines LOP. Their theory was larger atomized fuel particles tended to separate more through bends in the induction system downstream of the carburetor giving unequal fuel charge delivery. Their theory was raising the temperature a bit tended to give smaller particle sizes and/or more complete vaporization and thereby reduced the problem. They also pointed out the closer you can get to wide open throttle the less problematic this is as well, as the carburetor venturi can act as a more effective straightening vane. They did, however, caution that running partial carb heat on a regular basis may not be a great idea for a number of reasons - their point was to help us understand what was likely going on.
I don't think they had the ability to validate this through hard data, but their empirical experience seemed to align with the theory, as has mine with an albeit much smaller subset of airplanes I've experimented with.
I'll certainly be interested to hear more about the results of your testing. Thanks for the work you're doing to figure this out.
Mike
Great discussion. In my experience every application we worked with had similar restraints on what could be done to feed the intake (carb or FI). In all cases we worked hard to create the largest mass of relatively undisturbed air or a plenum. None of this could be tested as the dyno was stationary and the issues arose when in motion. What seemed most successful was an intake scoop necked down longitudinally and expanded into a plenum feeding all intakes. Here's the best pic I could find easily:Thomas, what you said would work.
My thoughts: No matter how a bend is made, it would take a flow straightener along with a straight section before the carb, or a large plenum to get a uniform cross section of air entering the carb. There is not enough room under the cowl for this to happen. Then there is the throttle plate in the carb that adds in additional issues. At best, we could only make an improvement towards uniform flow entering the carb. Before I would go to the effort to build/design a new air box for experimentation, I would want to know if the results were worth the effort. Wouldn't it be great fun to have a dyno to do this work?
By disabling the carb heat as I described above and having outside air from the nose bowl feed the air box's carb heat port, then the carb heat control (the red knob) could be used to tune the inlet air for the carb. If there was a setting that had a healthy improvement for EGT symmetry that worked from a slow cruise setting to WOT, then it could be determined if making a new air box design was worth the effort. This air box test with carb heat replaced with outside air would create flow from opposing directions that would tend to cancel out some of the problem as well as adding a bit of plenum before the carb.
Another possible experiment could be introducing additional filtered air from another location and ducting it into a new port in the side of the air box. The duct would probably be smaller than the main intake but if the theory is correct it seems it would still help. Maybe two smaller ones.Thomas, what you said would work.
My thoughts: No matter how a bend is made, it would take a flow straightener along with a straight section before the carb, or a large plenum to get a uniform cross section of air entering the carb. There is not enough room under the cowl for this to happen. Then there is the throttle plate in the carb that adds in additional issues. At best, we could only make an improvement towards uniform flow entering the carb. Before I would go to the effort to build/design a new air box for experimentation, I would want to know if the results were worth the effort. Wouldn't it be great fun to have a dyno to do this work?
By disabling the carb heat as I described above and having outside air from the nose bowl feed the air box's carb heat port, then the carb heat control (the red knob) could be used to tune the inlet air for the carb. If there was a setting that had a healthy improvement for EGT symmetry that worked from a slow cruise setting to WOT, then it could be determined if making a new air box design was worth the effort. This air box test with carb heat replaced with outside air would create flow from opposing directions that would tend to cancel out some of the problem as well as adding a bit of plenum before the carb.
I may easily be wrong .... but. I don't think adding more air entry to the existing airbox would do much. As I see it there are 2 primary difficulties with the existing design: 1) the carb intake has a nice bell opening - but the airbox ignores this and places a tube against this bell defeating the bell. 2) the airbox is rather flat, not much height, and the warm air flopper plate presents a ramp in close proximity to the tube running to the carb.Another possible experiment could be introducing additional filtered air from another location and ducting it into a new port in the side of the air box. The duct would probably be smaller than the main intake but if the theory is correct it seems it would still help. Maybe two smaller ones.