Tailwheel Shimmy

mikegillam

Member
[I searched the old topics and couldn't find anything on this - surely it's been covered before (?)]

Anyway, I had to make a few landings on tarmac recently and she wobbled like a duck in a hurry. Shimmy gets better if I unload the stick.
Everything looks to be normal at the rear end - any ideas on how to stop this? Feels like it must stress the rear end.
 

bumper

Well-Known Member
Make sure all bolts are tight, especially the bolt that attaches aluminum tailwheel casting to spring. Note that it is common for the aluminum of the casting to "flow" under the washer, with the washer bending and dishing in - this loosens things up. The fix is to use a high strength washer, of as large an OD as will fit, to spread the load over a wider area of the casting. I made my washer on the lathe.

It may be necessary to disassemble tailwheel, clean and re-lube, and check that there are 5 springs present.

Tailwheel springs should not have too much slack.

I've gotten in the habit of keeping the tailwheel off the ground until slowed way down. Procedure I use is: Land tailwheel low then stick forward to plant mains. If stopping distance isn't critical, leave flaps down. Allow to slow as much as possible, put tailwheel down gently while there is still enough energy remaining for elevator to prevent it falling (i.e. If you are braking aggressively and slow it way down with the tail up, if you get off the brakes abruptly, the tail will tend to fall). The key is to balance remaining energy so as to keep the tail off the ground until ship is as slowed as much as possible, but put the tail down gently with elevator and/or getting off the brakes while enough energy remains to do so gently and elegantly (no bouncing the tailwheel allowed) . . . and no shimmy.

bumper
 

airplanebrad

Active Member
Re-arch the tail springs. Your pivot should be 90 degrees square with the ground. Otherwise it will shimy no matter what
 

trapper

Well-Known Member
I have an almost new 3 leaf ak Bushwheel tail spring for sale if someone wants It I changed to Thomas's carbon fiber one
 

JimC01

Member
I have an almost new 3 leaf ak Bushwheel tail spring for sale if someone wants It I changed to Thomas's carbon fiber one

Hi

I might have an interest.

I have an 2011 A1-C that with an AK Tailwheel that I could change out.

What is the price?

Jim
 
Mike,
Did you get it fixed?
I had to tighten mine today.
Put the tail on a jack stand with a towel on the jack stand. With your hands move the tail wheel and you will see how loose it is.
Remove the cotter pin and tighten the nuts as bumper suggested. Make sure the wheel turns smoothly. Re-assemble and grease. It should take care of it.
Hope you have been doing well!
Mark
 

james olson md

New Member
This is my first post in almost a year. I ground looped my 2008 A1-C Husky on April 18, 2014. I had installed Alaska Bushwheel 31 inch tires and their tailwheel. On my third landing at my local airport the tailwheel began to shimmy violently, and I do mean violently. It caused a rapid veering to the rignt and a ground loop with damage to the left wing and landing gear. The 2 landings that preceded the ground loop were uneventful. Ironically I had flown my 1991 Husky with the exact same tires and tailwheel assembly for over a year with no problems, so it was not my first experience with these tires and the tailwheel. When I sold the old Husky I had the tires and tailwheel removed and installed on the 2008 Husky. I have 667 hours in Huskys and almost 800 landings. After getting the aircraft back from being repaired at Aviat in October last year I had the original 850 tires and tailwheel put back on the aircraft. The insurance company said nothing was wrong with the Alaska Bushwheel tailwheel. I am back to flying the Husky and have had no problems since going back to the original tires and tailwheel. I still have no idea what happened and am not likely to ever find out why I crashed that day. I was planning on selling the 2008 Husky but have since reconsidered because I really do enjoy flying that plane.
 

Snowbirdxx

Well-Known Member
James,

the shimmy is caused by several factors, which I am listing here. Each factor itself can cause Shimmy, but often multiple factors add up. The sequence of the factors sorted by most possible factor.

Tailspring too flat swiveling level needs to be 3° forward
Tailwheel unbalanced
Tailwheel tire not round
Too high tailloads from pulling stick back
Too high tailloads from heavy passenger and baggage
Flaps retracted and stick backwards
Tailwheel touched down with rudder not centered.
Tailspring loose
Control springs too loose

I got rid of all this by the Composite tailspring.

Tom
 

tbienz

Well-Known Member
Thomas,
Just curious here...by what means does the composite tailspring resolve tailwheel shimmy. Most of the common causes you've listed seem to be things unaffected by the spring. Is it just that the composite structure has more intrinsic vibration damping so the shimmy does not develop as often?
 

trapper

Well-Known Member
I have the composite tailspring and have absolutely no shimmy even if i have a less than stellar landing!
 

mikegillam

Member
I just fitted Thomas's tailspring a week or so ago - this should eliminate shimmy (fingers crossed). I managed a few landing but only on grass and since the airfield was as smooth as a ploughed field, it's too early to draw any conclusions. I'll be with my aeroplane again in early April and will go land it on some tarmac with a heavy friend in the back. I'll keep y'all posted :)
 

Snowbirdxx

Well-Known Member
james

Contact me at snowbirdxx@aol.com

@ ThomasB

The comp tailspring has similar dampening charactaristics than the steel spring in the aligned direction. But the comp spring is much stronger when getting torqued.

If the steering wheel is deflected, all the tailloads are transferred into the spring by torque. Arm of deflection x load : Torque.

By twisting the spring, the rotation level gets too flat which results in shimmy.
tom
 

dogday

Active Member
Tom D,

I am unsure that I am following your description of the "Shimmy." Would it be correct to say that it is a "Death Wobble" created from weak torsional stiffness and insufficient positive caster?

Regards
Craig
 

bumper

Well-Known Member
Craig,

I'm sure "death wobble" is the same as shimmy. Though "tailwheel shimmy" is the commonly accepted term for this phenomenon as it occurs on tailwheel aircraft for the reasons outlined by TomD.

Since it is one of the few banes of taildraggers, much has been written of it over the years, with lots of advice, much with disappointing degrees of efficacy.

Some examples of questionable that didn't work all that well: Maule's steering springs of unequal strength ostensibly to dampen oscillation. AKB's advice to leave lots of slack in the spring/chain - this did help reduce steering effectiveness, made it easier to unlock to full swivel and reduced the incidence of bent steering horns, the latter two issues were due mostly to Aviat's too short springs.

bumper
 

Snowbirdxx

Well-Known Member
Some examples of questionable that didn't work all that well: Maule's steering springs of unequal strength ostensibly to dampen oscillation. AKB's advice to leave lots of slack in the spring/chain - this did help reduce steering effectiveness, made it easier to unlock to full swivel and reduced the incidence of bent steering horns, the latter two issues were due mostly to Aviat's too short springs.


Agreed on all Bumper, just want to add that Aviats geometry of the rudder arm and the large steering arm, combined with rudder deflections as outlined in the TC and the too short compression springs, will not unlock the tailwheel, but destroy quiet a bit on the tail. Bent steering arms and bent / broken rudder arms.
With rudder deflections as outlined in the TC, the Husky flies like a cripple.
Real men can tame the dog with deflections just short of touching the elevator. That can be done by simply adjusting the rudder stops on the tailpost. Sideslipping then is possible with directional control.
 

Meadowlark

Well-Known Member
IMHO..... For whatever that is worth..... It is MANDATORY to reset the rudder stops all the way in. Along with removing most of the rudder pedal springs will transform the Husky into a flyable aircraft.

J/C GTF
 
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