Shining Dome
Member
My A1-C will only slightly turn to the right while taxiing without applying the brake. Left pedal with no brake applied will turn her easily to the left. Normal?
Taxi Question
- Thread starter Shining Dome
- Start date
Meadowlark
Well-Known Member
Try taking all the extra springs off..... Two extra on the right pedal and one of the left. All that is necessary are the two near the firewall to keep the rudder pedals from falling over. Also, screw in the stop screws on the fuselage that stop the rudder from swinging fully left and right.
J/C GTF & P48
J/C GTF & P48
Snowbirdxx
Well-Known Member
What LC said is correct. Plus make sure that if the tail is jacked in the air. The tailwheel is aligned with the rudder and the chainplay is equal. Adjust chainplay by shortening the chain on one side.
Shining Dome
Member
Thanks for the responses. I will jack the tail and check the alignment with the rudder. The chain play appears to be correct and I had it verified when I had my annual at the factory in March. I am able to push the rudder pedal all the way down without feeling too much return spring force if that helps. Appreciate your input.
Shining Dome
Member
I jacked it up and verified proper tail wheel operation, chain play, cable tension, rudder travel, and rudder alignment. I did not remove the springs as I can easily depress the right rudder to the stops. In the attached video, I apply only rudder at 1300 rpm and you can see how slow it turns right and how quickly it turns left on the ground. Rudder travel is the same on both pedals.
Please take a look at the two attached videos and see if they offer any insight. I appreciate your additional input on what the root cause of this may be.
Meadowlark
Well-Known Member
A couple of things..... First, it appears you are using the brakes. Did you check the fluid levels in the reservoirs? Second, the chain tension is way too loose.
You really need to remove those springs and screw in the stops on the rudder. Also, remember that brake fluid is prone to evaporation. This is because in an airplane, the reservoirs must be vented...... The system is sealed in a vehicle and not prone to evaporation.
I can taxi my Husky without using the brakes. The only time I actually use the brakes is to hold the aircraft back on run up and to make a sharp 90* turn in front of my hangar.
Never assume that because it came from the factory that way, it is correct. And, never assume that because some A&P worked on it and set things up that way, it is correct.
J/C GTF & P48
You really need to remove those springs and screw in the stops on the rudder. Also, remember that brake fluid is prone to evaporation. This is because in an airplane, the reservoirs must be vented...... The system is sealed in a vehicle and not prone to evaporation.
I can taxi my Husky without using the brakes. The only time I actually use the brakes is to hold the aircraft back on run up and to make a sharp 90* turn in front of my hangar.
Never assume that because it came from the factory that way, it is correct. And, never assume that because some A&P worked on it and set things up that way, it is correct.
J/C GTF & P48
Snowbirdxx
Well-Known Member
Just remove one chainkink on the Rh side. Try. If not satisfactory remove another one. They can be removed by bending up.
Check the position of the brake pedals.they need to be flat enough so you will not touch them. I second JCs post.
Check if the mounting angle on the tailspring is horizontal. If the spring is tilted, the castering angle for left turns is different than for RH turns.
Check the position of the brake pedals.they need to be flat enough so you will not touch them. I second JCs post.
Check if the mounting angle on the tailspring is horizontal. If the spring is tilted, the castering angle for left turns is different than for RH turns.
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Shining Dome
Member
Great thoughts gents. Be assured that my toes are off the brakes and the pedal pressure is on the balls of my feet. BTW, brakes are serviced recently and reservoirs full. I do take your point that I might need to adjust the brake pedals to offset them even more.
Today’s plan of attack:
1 - Check the tail spring for horizontal castor alignment
2 - Remove a link from the right only
If no improvement then
3 - remove springs
4- move rudder stops inboard
I will report back to you. Cannot thank you men enough!
Doug
Today’s plan of attack:
1 - Check the tail spring for horizontal castor alignment
2 - Remove a link from the right only
If no improvement then
3 - remove springs
4- move rudder stops inboard
I will report back to you. Cannot thank you men enough!
Doug
Snowbirdxx
Well-Known Member
Doug
please jack the tail and verify that the tailwheelarm is pulling the fork assy to the right.
It could be that the notch of the controlarm is worn. This is internally and can not be seen without disassembly. But it can be checked. Kick the rudder on the jacked tail while someone is holding the tire. He should not be able to hold the tire straight. If the tire stays straight and the rudder moved, the notch or the Lockspring is the culprit.
TomD
please jack the tail and verify that the tailwheelarm is pulling the fork assy to the right.
It could be that the notch of the controlarm is worn. This is internally and can not be seen without disassembly. But it can be checked. Kick the rudder on the jacked tail while someone is holding the tire. He should not be able to hold the tire straight. If the tire stays straight and the rudder moved, the notch or the Lockspring is the culprit.
TomD
Shining Dome
Member
Tom, I did indeed check the proper operation of the tail wheel but I have not tried the drill you mention to test the lock spring and notch. Good thought. I did shorten the chain which provided some improvement. I will get back to it next week when I can find a volunteer to help me and report my findings. Thanks.
Meadowlark
Well-Known Member
One other thought..... You do realize that all single engine propeller driven aircraft turn to the left more readily than to the right. Because of the propeller factor......
J/C GTF & P48
J/C GTF & P48
Shining Dome
Member
This is different and much too pronounced , plus it did not always do it like this. Thanks though.
[QUOTE Check if the mounting angle on the tailspring is horizontal. If the spring is tilted, the castering angle for left turns is different than for RH turns.[/QUOTE]
I had a bit of this tilt with both multi leaf springs I've tried, more noticeable w/ the BBW. I assumed it was contributing to the difficulty turning right. A while back I installed Tom D's spring steel tailwheel spring which is much more rigid torsionally and it has nearly eliminated the need for right brake input to taxi.
I had a bit of this tilt with both multi leaf springs I've tried, more noticeable w/ the BBW. I assumed it was contributing to the difficulty turning right. A while back I installed Tom D's spring steel tailwheel spring which is much more rigid torsionally and it has nearly eliminated the need for right brake input to taxi.
Shining Dome
Member
This photo is with the weight off the jack and before I tightened the chain. I think the angle of the castor is maybe 20 degrees. I would love to know more about the tailspring change you are talking about.
I had a bit of this tilt with both multi leaf springs I've tried, more noticeable w/ the BBW. I assumed it was contributing to the difficulty turning right. A while back I installed Tom D's spring steel tailwheel spring which is much more rigid torsionally and it has nearly eliminated the need for right brake input to taxi.[/QUOTE]
Shining Dome
Member
I tried the test you recommended Tom and The tail wheel follows the rudder. I believe the wheel (which is less than a year old) is operating properly.
[QUOTE Check if the mounting angle on the tailspring is horizontal. If the spring is tilted, the castering angle for left turns is different than for RH turns.[/QUOTE]
This sentence describes it well. When standing behind the plane lining up wheel, rudder, plane, the wheel has a ever so suttle bias one way such that the sentence above describes it perfectly. The movement between the 3 leafs allowed mine to castor differently one side to the other. Tom D. (SnowbirdXX) sells a spring steel single leaf (?) that I put on for other reasons, found it helped with the taxi issue.
This sentence describes it well. When standing behind the plane lining up wheel, rudder, plane, the wheel has a ever so suttle bias one way such that the sentence above describes it perfectly. The movement between the 3 leafs allowed mine to castor differently one side to the other. Tom D. (SnowbirdXX) sells a spring steel single leaf (?) that I put on for other reasons, found it helped with the taxi issue.
Shining Dome
Member
This sentence describes it well. When standing behind the plane lining up wheel, rudder, plane, the wheel has a ever so suttle bias one way such that the sentence above describes it perfectly. The movement between the 3 leafs allowed mine to castor differently one side to the other. Tom D. (SnowbirdXX) sells a spring steel single leaf (?) that I put on for other reasons, found it helped with the taxi issue.[/QUOTE]
looks good and even measured heights from floor to axle and to horns and they are the same. I wonder if I should see if the leafs might slip or bend with a bias under turning load. Not sure how to ho about that. I’m the meantime how do I order Tom’s spring?
JACK
Active Member
email Tom at thomaspdietrich@gmail.com