Bungee replacement for A-1

[redhotwindsock]

Hello,

I've got to replace the bungees of our A-1, 1991, because they got weaker.
I've helped my elder friend to do this job long time ago. Also I watched the tutorial video from Aviat site. So basically I understand what to do.
What I don't understand (and I don't remember) is if it's really necessary to lift (or at least support) a wing while I replace bungees at the same side of the lifted wing.
I'm going to cut three bungees from only one side and replace these three first. Since there is a safety wire in each side to prevent from collapsing the undercarriage, I don't think lifting a wing is really necessary. Am I wrong?
By the way, there is no lifting rings installed with this husky. So it's not possible to hoist the whole aircraft.
Any advise form experts like you guys will be much appreciated.
Thank you in advance.

SJ

 

[David]

Use a regular engine hoist and lifting straps on the engine mounting bracket or engine lift eye if your engine has one. Don't trust the safety cables. Personally, I think they are just there for looks.
David

 

[redhotwindsock]

Use a regular engine hoist and lifting straps on the engine mounting bracket or engine lift eye if your engine has one. Don't trust the safety cables. Personally, I think they are just there for looks.
David

Hi David,

Thank you so much for your valuable advice.
Yes, our O-360 has an engine lifting eye. Is this eye strong enough to support the weight of the engine itself and some of the airframe in case of collapse of a landing gear? I've used this eye only when I put the engine on and off the engine mount.

Yes, sir. I won't trust the safety cables anymore although they look quite promising.

SJ

 

[JACK]

The literature from Aviat specifically says not to use the lifting ring on the engine. Use a strap or strong rope on the engine mount.

 

[David]

The literature from Aviat specifically says not to use the lifting ring on the engine. Use a strap or strong rope on the engine mount.

Jack is right on what Aviat says. I personally use lifting straps on the motor mount. I actually use these from Harbor Freight for this job as well as lifting and moving my lathes and milling machines (each one which weighs more than a completely loaded A-1C Husky. https://www.harborfreight.com/mater...-ft-6400-lb-capacity-lifting-sling-61233.html

 

[dogday]

Or you could use a ratchet strap on the other side's tie-down if you have something to attach it to. Ratchet one side down and the other side will come up off the ground.

 

[redhotwindsock]

The literature from Aviat specifically says not to use the lifting ring on the engine. Use a strap or strong rope on the engine mount.

Hello Jack,

Thank you so much for your giving me the warning. Yes, you are right. I've checked the ICA and found the warning in the page 6. Maybe I can get away with using the lifting eye with this case as David says. But I will go safer way as you say. Thanks again for your valuable advice.

SJ

 

[redhotwindsock]

Jack is right on what Aviat says. I personally use lifting straps on the motor mount. I actually use these from Harbor Freight for this job as well as lifting and moving my lathes and milling machines (each one which weighs more than a completely loaded A-1C Husky. https://www.harborfreight.com/mater...-ft-6400-lb-capacity-lifting-sling-61233.html

Hi David,

Thank you so much for your valuable advice again. Fortunately I've got this kind of soft slings already. I'm going to use these to support the engine mount. Many thanks.

SJ

 

[redhotwindsock]

Or you could use a ratchet strap on the other side's tie-down if you have something to attach it to. Ratchet one side down and the other side will come up off the ground.

Hi Dogday,

Thank you so much for the information. Yes, I've read this somewhere in this web site before. But I wasn't sure if the tie-down ring was strong enough to lift the other side of the landing gear. Are you sure the ring is strong enough?

SJ

 

[Jeb]

If you have the ability to lift with straps, you will probably feel better that way.
To pull down the opposite side, ratchet it tight then go push up on the other side. Kind of rock the plane then tighten, rock the plane, so forth. It all moves around and settles and seems ok.
If all you do is just keep tightening it feels pretty dramatic. I didn’t like that.

 

[dogday]

Hi Dogday,

Thank you so much for the information. Yes, I've read this somewhere in this web site before. But I wasn't sure if the tie-down ring was strong enough to lift the other side of the landing gear. Are you sure the ring is strong enough?

SJ

I have lifted my wheels, one at a time, at my outside tie down without problems by ratcheting down the other side. In my hangar, it is easier to use the lifting rings.

 

[trapper]

Make sure to get the right bungees or it will land like welded gear. Check the thread on our site detailing the preferred sizes

 

[JACK]

Yes, by all means do not use the Aviat recommendation on bungees. We did, and as trapper said it was like the gear was almost welded. We cut two off each side, and used the recommended setup from this forum. MUCH better.

 

[Snowbirdxx]

If you use the Aviat recommendation, you should use the Super SGS kit to get a decend gear .

 

[redhotwindsock]

If you use the Aviat recommendation, you should use the Super SGS kit to get a decend gear .

Hello nice people,

Thank you very much for all the suggestions. All of them are so valuable for me. Yes, I've already carefully read the thread "Bungee Replacement" and learnt a lot. Again thank you so much that you shared your valuable knowledge and experience in this web site.

We use the A-1 as a tow plane and hence fly a lot. It takes off and lands about 1200 times per year. So I thought the toughest bungees (=1380AVx3 in each side) which Aviat recommended were the best for our use. Do you guys still recommend the set-up (=1380x2+1280HDx1 or 1380x1+1280HDx2 in each side) even for tug plane? Ours has got conventional landing gears with 8.00x6 wheels by the way.

Yes, I'm also interested in the super SGS kit. Do you think another set-up with 1380x3+super SGS is good for tow plane?

SJ

 

[Snowbirdxx]

On a tow plane use you should get 1X1380 hd and 2X 1280 HD or 3X1280HD both setups with Supern SGS.


Most impportant, replace the forward main gear bolts once a year , as well as all 4 tailwheel bolts.

If you are located in Europe, I have a Bungee tool which I give away free. You just pay shipping.

And make sure you got the cooling lip and the #3 baffle mod.

 

[redhotwindsock]

On a tow plane use you should get 1X1380 hd and 2X 1280 HD or 3X1280HD both setups with Supern SGS.


Most impportant, replace the forward main gear bolts once a year , as well as all 4 tailwheel bolts.

If you are located in Europe, I have a Bungee tool which I give away free. You just pay shipping.

And make sure you got the cooling lip and the #3 baffle mod.

Hello Thomas,

Thank you so much for your valuable advice again. I'll try your set-up this time. I've already ordered a set of super SGS to Hancock Aviation and waiting an answer from them. I hope they've got some in stock and will ship them soon.

Yes, I always replace all four bolts for both of the main gears at annual inspection as preventive maintenance. A interesting thing I found from what you said is that the rear main gear bolts tend to be bent before the forward bolts get bent with our A-1.

I live in Japan and our club has got a bungee tool. Thank you for your offer. It's very kind of you.

Yes, I've ordered a cooling lip as well with the super SGS this time and the #3 baffle mod is my next project.

SJ

 

[tbienz]

Tom,
Replacing the main gear bolts seems like a major PITA. I’ve never done it since installing the Seaplanes North gear many years ago (and at that time I think the bolts were reused as they appeared fine). It was certainly a PITA then. Do you have to fully unload gear (lift plane and cut bungees)? I don’t believe this is in the ICA (but it’s at the hangar so I’m not sure) have you seen the bolts fail with gear collapse?

 

[Gust Kalatzes]

Tom,
Replacing the main gear bolts seems like a major PITA. I’ve never done it since installing the Seaplanes North gear many years ago (and at that time I think the bolts were reused as they appeared fine). It was certainly a PITA then. Do you have to fully unload gear (lift plane and cut bungees)? I don’t believe this is in the ICA (but it’s at the hangar so I’m not sure) have you seen the bolts fail with gear collapse?

Thomas just follow the old bolt out with a new or used bolt if you have one then tap a new back in. Very easy.

 

[Snowbirdxx]

Hello Thomas,

Thank you so much for your valuable advice again. I'll try your set-up this time. I've already ordered a set of super SGS to Hancock Aviation and waiting an answer from them. I hope they've got some in stock and will ship them soon.

Yes, I always replace all four bolts for both of the main gears at annual inspection as preventive maintenance. A interesting thing I found from what you said is that the rear main gear bolts tend to be bent before the forward bolts get bent with our A-1.

I live in Japan and our club has got a bungee tool. Thank you for your offer. It's very kind of you.

Yes, I've ordered a cooling lip as well with the super SGS this time and the #3 baffle mod is my next project.

SJ

SJ


Hankock is doing the distribution in US. Makes no sense to ship nthem from the US to Japan. As for cooling lips, we could male you one next weel. Do you need the drawings for the #3 baffle mod? Let me know if I need to ship ou both.

Bolt replacement is easy. Just take an old bolt and taber it a bit, then drive the une out thats in use, Then Take a new lubed bolt and drive the taperes serviceolt out