Cowl cooling lip

Larson

Active Member
Hi all

I installed a new cooling lip on the lower exit of the cowl.
It is approx. 2 1/2 times longer and half the angle of the original factory lip.

It was a cool, rainy day 46 F .... high power climb/low airspeed CHT 370F, in cruise my CHT dropped to 305 (#3). Oil 155F.
I’m thinking during summer 120 F and floats, this would work well, but during winter?

Is this too cool? .... how cold is too cold for the CHT?

Cheers Lars.
 

jkalus

Active Member
What do you think your temps would have been with out the improved lip?

Did you change the size of the cowl opening or just change the design of the lip?
 

tbienz

Well-Known Member
I wouldn't have thought that a cooling lip would make much of a difference for oil temp, but 155 is colder than I'd like to see. Do you have your oil cooler closed? I don't think the CHT's being cool are concerning at all. I'm quite surprised that you were showing 155 oil T with OAT at 46...mine isn't that cold in flight even when it's -25 out. Are you sure your thermocouple is accurate? I've always been told that to get the moisture out of the oil you want at least 180deg F.
 

Larson

Active Member
Running the factory cooling lip, I would see the following:

Regularly 395 CHT climb on hot day, 370 CHT climb cold day... oil 195/200 hot day, 175/180 cold day ...

The only change I made was the cooling lip ... everything else stock factory.
I was surprised to see the CHT’s decrease in cruise... maybe I need to trim the cooling lip back a little?

I very rarely have freezing conditions when flying ...
 

Gust Kalatzes

Active Member
Hi all

I installed a new cooling lip on the lower exit of the cowl.
It is approx. 2 1/2 times longer and half the angle of the original factory lip.

It was a cool, rainy day 46 F .... high power climb/low airspeed CHT 370F, in cruise my CHT dropped to 305 (#3). Oil 155F.
I’m thinking during summer 120 F and floats, this would work well, but during winter?

Is this too cool? .... how cold is too cold for the CHT?

Cheers Lars.

Should be a link to the O-360-A1P (and other 360’s) engine manual below.

https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/O-HO-IO-HIO-AIO & TIO-360 Oper Manual 60297-12.pdf

180 deg oil temp is ideal and continuous operation should be above 140 degrees. Not sure you would burn off much moisture at 155 degrees. The book only says keep CHT’s below 435 degrees in performance cruise or 75% power and above and below 400 degrees for economy cruise...if I quoted the manual correctly.
 

Larson

Active Member
We put two large cooling lips (bigger that factory lip) on two husky’s. One Early Husky C1G engine and mine A1P. I have had some hot days lately (110-120 f), and this cooling lip works well. However the C1G still has oil temp in the 210 f range. The hottest I get is 190-195 f.

Are there any difference between the C1G and A1P oil coolers or set-up that could explain this difference in oil temps?
 

Gust Kalatzes

Active Member
Lars, I don't know for sure and it’s been a couple years since doing my research. If my memory is correct from my research a couple of years ago the first cooler was not as good as the second 2 but I may be wrong. My perception of the last 2 is just brand difference. The air delivery to the cooler has changed for sure. I don't know what years these changes happened specifically.

I believe there were 3 different oil coolers or vendors I know of used over the years, maybe more. I did speak to 2 of them directly and the factory just to see if I could use one over the other if I chose to. I determined the answer to that question was yes but went with the same cooler the plane had for reasons above.

I also chose not to have the cooler cleaned after some discussion with two manufacturers. Obviously they are in the business of selling new but a 19 year old cooler, potential silicon, down time, etc made the decision easy based on the cost difference (cleaning or new). I also replaced the Vernatherm Valve and hoses. Second or third time on the Vernatherm over the years and I built a tool out of an old Vernatherm to lap the seat in also. The witness marks on the seat of the valve will tell you if it's sending all the oil to the cooler or not. They make a tool to correct the seat if it's real bad.

Ultimately changing the cooler, hoses and Vernatherm fixed the issue to a point that I feel it's normal and acceptable. I have also done a significant amount of baffle work. The difference is about 5-10 deg's compared to a 2017 on average. Why the newer planes like a 2017 run much cooler than a 1999 I believe is related to the air delivery change not the cooler. Something changed and the only thing I see is the air or where it's taken from. All of this is outside of an overhaul, tear down and inspect, etc. Bearing failure or being on the tight side of spec is one of the causes from lycoming book and phone help.

There are other folks on the list I hope chime in here. I'm a little embarrassed to say how many hours and dollars I have in chasing oil temp's. I feel I've fixed it but ouch! I don't think I would chase 210 deg's on a 110-120 deg day though.
 

David

Active Member
Lars,
I have an early Husky with the C1G. Its oil temp always ran 210 degrees plus in our N. Calif summers ( we see 6+ weeks of 100+ degree temps and 110 are not that unusual. I had the original factory oil cooler blow up and drain all the oil out within two minutes as I was taking off. Thank God my wife saw the oil covering my white hanger as I was taking off and stopped me before becoming airborne. I replaced the factory 7 core with a new 9 core, enlarged the scat tube going from behind #3 cylinder to the oil cooler, installed a front cylinder cooling lip, moved the cooling lip forward (after enlarging the opening) and enlarged the cooling lip at a lesser angle like the above photos. Now my oil has never gone beyond 195 degrees while doing a steep climb during the peak heat of summer. The newer Huskys take the oil cooler air from the top center of the rear baffle. Don't know if that makes a difference in oil cooling temps, but I am sure it allows the #3 cylinder to run cooler.
David
 

Snowbirdxx

Well-Known Member
Lars, no c1g or A1p is no difference in oiltemp. I know cool running c1Gs with 9 cell coolers running perfect. And A1Ps running hot on oil. Changing cylinders, vernatherms, and vernathermseats did not solve the problem, neither adding a second cooler. I gave up and swapped engines. Perfect now. BTW it made almost no difference in CHT or Oiltemp, where I was feeding the oilcooler from. Scoop,NACA duct, top cowl center or rear baffle. No difference was noted on containing the oilcooler outlet and housing the discharged air to the lower cowling outlets low pressure area. It drove me nuts.
 
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Meadowlark

Well-Known Member
Lars, no c1g or A1p is no difference in oiltemp. I know cool running c1Gs with 9 cell coolers running perfect. And A1Ps running hot on oil. Changing cylinders, vernatherms, and vernathermseats did not solve the problem, neither adding a second cooler. I gave up and swapped engines. Perfect now. BTW it made almost no difference in CHT or Oiltemp, where I was feeding the oilcooler from. Scoop,NACA duct, top cowl center or rear baffle. No difference was noted on containing the oilcooler outlet and housing the discharged air to the lower cowling outlets low pressure area. It drove me nuts.

Me too. I finally just quit flying low and slow when the ambient air temperature is very hot...... Not too many days during a Montana Summer.

J/C GTF
 

Vermont

New Member
Hi all

I installed a new cooling lip on the lower exit of the cowl.
It is approx. 2 1/2 times longer and half the angle of the original factory lip.

It was a cool, rainy day 46 F .... high power climb/low airspeed CHT 370F, in cruise my CHT dropped to 305 (#3). Oil 155F.
I’m thinking during summer 120 F and floats, this would work well, but during winter?

Is this too cool? .... how cold is too cold for the CHT?

Cheers Lars.
Any chance you have a photo of your mod? Did you purchase it or make it yourself?
 
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