Back Country Tool Kit

Scott Musser

Administrator
Staff member
It has been suggested that a good project for the Fly Husky Group would be to develop a list of tools, parts and spares, recommended to be carried in your Husky in the back country. Not to be confused with a back country safety kit. I know there's some crossover, but if there's interest, we could start a list for safety items as well.

Add your items one line at a time.

I'll start:

Tool Bag
Leatherman
 

chaser

New Member
Tools & Parts

Ok, here is a list of small things to carry. This is not complete or what everyone wants but it is a start. A few years back Jim Wark had a good list of things to carry on the net. Jim, please post it again.
John

Safety wire
Dental pick
3/8 drive breaker bar
3/8 drive plug socket
Hand made wheel nut wrench
For really remote areas, spare main tire tube & TW Tube
valve stem tool
Nuts and bolts ( TW bolts)
valve cover screws
light weight tire pump
sml mill file
multi screw driver
small socket set of select sockets
 

bumper

Well-Known Member
Add,

Pliers or Leatherman tool
Digital VOM (volt-ohm-meter)
Duct tape or similar
Extra spark plug or two - - can be cheaper massive if you have fine wires)
Spare cowl and fairing (#8 and #6) SS screws and washers
2 Qts of oil

3 types of tie downs (Fly ties or claw, screw in anchors, 3
canvas bags for burying in loose soil - sand - or rocks)
extra tie down rope (3/8" yaught braid)


bumper
 

Snowbirdxx

Well-Known Member
Although I carry most of th stuff above mentioned, I nerver had to use it. What I relally needed:

Small bottle of Hydraulic fluid, scringe, screwdirver.

It had happened a coulpe of times nor in 4000 plus Husky hrs that the brake s went soft. This happen because the caliper voilume is much higher that the volume of the brak cylinder reservoir.

Procerdure for bleeding in the field:

Press calipers against the brakedisk, that will make the pistons go in and and press the fluid up to the brakecylinder.

Open the filling screw and try to fill.Iif unable, pump 1-2 strokes then fill. pump again, fill again etc till brakes are hard.

Therfor you need the scringe. Get a big one......30ccm plus and fill a small plastic bottle till the top, then close it. Try to avoid air in the plastic bottle. It will expand at altitude and make a mess...... Had all of this.......no need for duplication.

TomD
 

Scott Musser

Administrator
Staff member
So far our BCTK includes:

Tool Bag
Leatherman
Safety wire
Dental pick
3/8 drive breaker bar
3/8 drive plug socket
Hand made wheel nut wrench
For really remote areas, spare main tire tube & TW Tube
Valve stem tool
Nuts and bolts ( TW bolts)
Valve cover screws
Light weight tire pump
Small mill file
Multi screw driver
Small socket set of select sockets
Digital VOM (volt-ohm-meter)
Duct tape or similar
Extra spark plug or two - - can be cheaper massive if you have fine wires)
Spare cowl and fairing (#8 and #6) SS screws and washers
2 Qts of oil
3 types of tie downs (Fly ties or claw, screw in anchors, 3
Canvas bags for burying in loose soil - sand - or rocks)
Extra tie down rope (3/8" yaught braid)
Small bottle of brake fluid w/syringe


Anything else?
 

Planes77ca

New Member
What about an extra drain valve for the fuel tank, for when those nasty filings decide to leave the tank?
Scott
CCQ3
 
Cowl screw washers

I notice that it is suggested that we put some extra cowl screws and washers in the tool kit. Excellent idea, and I have the screws, but does anyone know exactly what size the nylon washers are that go under the cowl screws? How about a Aircraft Spruce part # or perhaps a # from Small Parts Inc.?

Chris
 

Kinoav8r

New Member
I notice that it is suggested that we put some extra cowl screws and washers in the tool kit. Excellent idea, and I have the screws, but does anyone know exactly what size the nylon washers are that go under the cowl screws? How about a Aircraft Spruce part # or perhaps a # from Small Parts Inc.?

Chris
I don't recall if they are 8-32 or 10-32, but whatever the size is (8 or 10), that's the size for the washers.

Get 'em here: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/hanylonwashers.php
 

FLHusky

Active Member
Has anyone had one of the fuel drains fail? I never have. Does anyone know the part number to order a spare?
 

Snowbirdxx

Well-Known Member
Mr Clifford,

you may use any drain with a 1/8 NPT thread on the LH side. I prefer the ones that canbe locked in the open position.They are called Curtiss drains. Thgey are easier to clean and the seal( O ring can be replaced. On the RH side the Curtiss drain sticks out too far and you will damage the window when opened. There a flush type is recommended,unless you have a hole in the Window anyway to fly in Florida....

On the flush typ drains,if clogged it is hard to clean them in the field. So carry an extra one with you.

I heard the news that ACS is coming out with adrain that also makes hot water , coffee and turns into a folding lightweight table which could be used as a tow bar and wife beating device...

TomD
 

Splashlanding

New Member
I heard the news that ACS is coming out with adrain that also makes hot water , coffee and turns into a folding lightweight table which could be used as a tow bar and wife beating device...

Tim is waiting for the float version and is hoping it will still be under 43 dollars :D:D:D


can you spell thread Hijack:eek:

Okay, back to the BCTK


Ki
 

FLHusky

Active Member
Do I really deserve the abuse? They probably laughed at Al Gore when he invented the internet.

BTW Ann wants the husband beating version with the Aeroccino adapter...got to have that latte.
 

HammerinHank

New Member
The fuel drains can fail or more likely leak if contaminated. If an air source is available, with the fuel caps off, blow through the drain while open. Can buy you some time.

They are 1/8" pipe thread and you should have one that doesn't open when the upper door window is up! Search any supplier for a flush one for the right tank, it will work in either.

When changing it with fuel in the tank, it can be done without too much of a mess. Wrap a rag around both wrists to keep fuel from going down your arm. Loosen the leaky one and when it can be turned by hand, get the replacement one in the good coordinated hand ready to re-install. Just move quickly and deliberately, good luck. While you are trying to thread the replacement in, push up some to stop the majority of leaking.

A bucket or some such under this is advised and will keep you in good stead with the EPA!
 

denningte

Member
The cowl screws on my A-1A are all 10-32 forward of the firewall. They are the same in the other Huskies I see on the field. The nylon washers are generally listed as a #10 in ACS lingo. I carry a 10-32 tap to clean out galled nut plates - an inevitable consequence of mating soft stainless to a cad plated nut plate with overzealous torque. Unless you are an experienced mechanic who can feel +/- 5 inch-pounds you are likely to over torque.:eek:

I also carry a 1/4 drive spline socket set of select sizes. If you have never used spline sockets they provide better grip and can work on all kinds of fastener geometries. Since I bought a complete mechanics set a few years ago my other sockets collect dust. 3/8 drive is just extra weight you don't need. :D

For large nuts like TW axles etc. I have a few stubby combination wrenches and they work fine. :)

Before packing a kit you should use the tools on your airplane to make sure they will actually do what you think they are supposed to do.:)
 

onthegas

New Member
Maybe a can of Fix-a-Flat? I was losing daylight coming back from OSH so I squirted some into my tailwheel tube. It held for 3 days until landing at LOL, an hour out of home. I then had to replace the tube with the spare that I carry with me and pumped it up with a quality hand pump sourced at the local bike shop. A floor jack would have been handy at the time but probably too heavy to carry around in the plane...
 

Snowbirdxx

Well-Known Member
I strongly recommend a small plastic bottle ( 1 pint )of brakefluid and a sringe or a small plastik oilcan with a fingerpump,. This way the brakes can be refilled if fadung. But try it out at home first.

I had to use mine once on my plane and MANY times on other Huskys.

TomD


TomD
 

bumper

Well-Known Member
I strongly recommend a small plastic bottle ( 1 pint )of brakefluid and a sringe or a small plastik oilcan with a fingerpump,. This way the brakes can be refilled if fadung. But try it out at home first.

I had to use mine once on my plane and MANY times on other Huskys.

TomD


TomD

I'm with Tom on this, though I put the 5606 in a smaller bottle so I'm only packing a few ounces. McMaster-Carr sells leur lock bottles (to accept needles), see http://www.mcmaster.com/#7544A66 When used with the right size needle, also available from MC, you don't even need to use the filler screw to check fluid levels . . . . just stick needle in hole and see if it'll suck air or fluid.
 
You can follow Bumper, but just do as he says, not as he does. At least while landing after water-skiing.

And no, you will NEVER live this down Bumper.
 
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