Cruise speed

[jliltd]

Are the elusive "pinky rings" available? I had a problem last weekend. I was tasked with flying a 15-ship en trail flight as a parade of flight for the local Cancer Society (The Flight to Fight). I was parade lead for the slow group (90 KIAS - 104 statute IAS) and another aircraft was parade lead for the fast airplane group (135 KIAS - 155 statute IAS). I got a lot of feedback from the participants that I was way too fast even though I had 104mph nailed on the ASI. I had everything from Cessna 206's to Arrows, V-tail Bananas, Luscombes behind me and a Robinson helicopter as tail-end charlie. Comments offered that I was perhaps closer to 112mph. Granted I was set up to indicate the agreed to airspeed (slower than my normal cruise) but am concerned about inaccuracies, especially in a special situation like being parade lead. I have no static modification device on my pitot and am beginning to think it would be a good idea.

 

[Snowbirdxx]

Start with checking your static. Ste the altimeter on takeoff to an even number, fly a pattern and buzz the takeoff point where you set the altimeter. Dont fly into the ground, if you buzz at 30 ft its fine. Altimeter should indicate the number you dialed in before or slightly higher.
If thats fine your static is not corrupt.
Look for leaks in the Pitot lines, most probably in the wing root LH side where the tubes go over the aluminum lines. Often the safety wire cuts through. Of further down just behind the windshield, where a screw may puncture the pitot hose.

 

[belloypilot]

Start with checking your static. Ste the altimeter on takeoff to an even number, fly a pattern and buzz the takeoff point where you set the altimeter. Dont fly into the ground, if you buzz at 30 ft its fine. Altimeter should indicate the number you dialed in before or slightly higher.
If thats fine your static is not corrupt.
Look for leaks in the Pitot lines, most probably in the wing root LH side where the tubes go over the aluminum lines. Often the safety wire cuts through. Of further down just behind the windshield, where a screw may puncture the pitot hose.

Somehow we need to make this bit of advice the first thing people see when they log into this forum .

 

[jkalus]

Now that more planes are equipped with PFDs and ADCs, has anyone tried to compensate for the static pressure error though static pressure calibration/offset? It might be an issue during inspection because it would show a bad value on the ground,

I’ve never been too concerned about it, it works out to indicating TAS in cruise for me. But now that I have an ADC it throws off the wind calculation and the type A pilot in me is having a hard time letting that go.

 

[belloypilot]

Exactly what motivated me to tinker with this. I find the wind vector on the G5s useful if it’s reasonably accurate. The downside with my tape and O-ring solution is that accurate IAS at cruise comes with reading too high in slow flight. Eventually I’ll upgrade to a heated pitot which is supposed to solve this IAS problem.

 

[Snowbirdxx]

Somehow we need to make this bit of advice the first thing people see when they log into this forum .

Mike,

I even explained this to many Husky pilots in person. Almost nobody did it. Why should they. It came from the factory that way and it shows a number.
But the concern that a gearfairing may be not approved is bigger.

 

[Snowbirdxx]

I have a limitation on my 76in prop of 2000-2250 RPM... been running 23 squared. never flipped it in all these years. Is there any negative in 1950 RPM 23in? 2000yr A-1B 180hrs O360

I have a limitation on my 76in prop of 2000-2250 RPM... been running 23 squared. never flipped it in all these years. Is there any negative in 1950 RPM 23in? 2000yr A-1B 180hrs O360

Paul,

tHESE LIMITATIONS ONLY APPLY AT HIGH POWER SETTINGS At 50 / 60 % there are no harminics on the prop. But you may do 23 7/ 1950



Airspeed / Wind


Static check

First close the static source with tape, then disconnect onder the panel from the water seperator inlet. If no static test set is available , suck on the static line and seal it with your lip. The low pressure should maintain.

If a leak is reseasing pressure, leak needs to be detected.

Places to look first: LH Wingroot, where the aluminum lines from the wing continue with plastic hoses
Often one of the 3 screws holding the cover between windshield and sliding windows penetrate the static or the airspeed plastic lines.

When all that is ok. Start correcting the static with the low pass and pinky rings. BTW, on my plane switching to the heated pitot tube was no sucess.