Problem solved: High CHT on #3 Cylinder

TheFlyingMouse

Active Member
Want to add a small tidbit. When our Husky was in for annual, I mentioned the cooling issues we were having on climb out to our a&p.

They found the front (metal) horizontal baffles had been bent downward over time and they did their best to reset them. There’s still a gap, but it has definitely helped with cooling on initial climb-out. Temps now settle in just over 400 on #4 after 1000ft of Vy with RPMs pulled back to 2500 instead of riding 450. Will have to see how things go during the summer, but it sounds like our biggest wins will come from further improvements in this area.
 

Kent Wien

Well-Known Member
In addition to the #3 temps dropping down with the Aviat rear #3 baffle mod, my #4 temps dropped as well.
 

Peterpannier

New Member
Very interesting Kent. Hard to imagine that increasing the airflow over #3 would have any effect on the airflow over #4. Perhaps the #3 mod creates an overall increase in the upper to lower pressure differential, thereby increasing airflow on the left side of the engine as well…..has me thinking….
 

Machrider

New Member
Has any body tried Aviat part 354280-05 /06?
I think the parts folks called it a shield baffle. It deflects more air into number 3 and 4 cylinders.

I guess the new airplanes come with this as standard equipment.

My A1B has the updated baffle and generally runs pretty cool. However number 3 EGT runs about 425 on an extended climb in warm conditions >85 degrees OAT. The others 1,2 in the 370s and number 4 around 400.

My Husky has a pod and 31s. I've installed a new JPI 900 series engine monitor so temps should be pretty accurate.

Would this be a worthwhile solution for reducing number 3s temp on climb out? Its runs $280 bucks for the right side and $116 for the left.

Thanks
 

Kent Wien

Well-Known Member
Has any body tried Aviat part 354280-05 /06?
I think the parts folks called it a shield baffle. It deflects more air into number 3 and 4 cylinders.

I guess the new airplanes come with this as standard equipment.

My A1B has the updated baffle and generally runs pretty cool. However number 3 EGT runs about 425 on an extended climb in warm conditions >85 degrees OAT. The others 1,2 in the 370s and number 4 around 400.

My Husky has a pod and 31s. I've installed a new JPI 900 series engine monitor so temps should be pretty accurate.

Would this be a worthwhile solution for reducing number 3s temp on climb out? Its runs $280 bucks for the right side and $116 for the left.

Thanks
YES!!!

I have the pod and nothing was helping reduce the #3 temperature until I got that shield baffle. Runs perfectly now. You’ll love it.
 

johnaz

Active Member
Anyone have a picture of what the baffle looks like? Maybe we could make one if simple.
Thanks,
John
 

Joachim Wieland

New Member
I believe we're discussing two different baffles here now. The beginning of the thread talked about the air duct at the back of the #3 cylinder (which is an amazing mod that I recommend to everyone). Now with "shield baffle" I think we're discussing the plates in front of the #1 and #2 cylinders as can be seen on this photo. I know Aviat is selling those but I found them quite expensive (~$300 per side), so I don't have them. If anyone has pre- and post installation experience with those and/or better photos, I'd also be happy to hear about it.
 

belloypilot

Active Member
The steps I followed to improve cooling on my 99 A-1B were in the following order:

1. Added the factory cooling lip at the bottom of the cowl. Resulted in modest lowering of all CHTs.

2. Added the partial ‘shield baffles’ at the front of #1 and #2 cylinders. Resulted in more even temperatures, and modest lowering of #3 and #4 Temps.

3. Added the #3 baffle modification. Resulted in 10-15 degree lowering of #3 temps in climb (went from > 400 to < 400 on typical summer days).

4. Changed the factory cooling lip for the one Thomas makes. Resulted in slight decrease and more even in CHTs across the board.

I now see #3 and #4 in the 390 range on climb out on an ISA + 10-15 day, and about 345-350 in cruise with a 20 degree spread across all cylinders. #4 is now typically the hottest, but only by 5 degrees or less.

I’m satisfied with engine cooling now and have no further plans to tinker with it.
 

Brad20j

Active Member
I believe we're discussing two different baffles here now. The beginning of the thread talked about the air duct at the back of the #3 cylinder (which is an amazing mod that I recommend to everyone). Now with "shield baffle" I think we're discussing the plates in front of the #1 and #2 cylinders as can be seen on this photo. I know Aviat is selling those but I found them quite expensive (~$300 per side), so I don't have them. If anyone has pre- and post installation experience with those and/or better photos, I'd also be happy to hear about it.
Good point. I have the current factory shield baffle in front of #1 and #2, as well as the air duct behind #3 in my B. CHTs are usually within 15-20F in cruise.
 

Don

New Member
I installed the Aviat rear #3 baffle mod on my A-1C and the temp drop was 30 deg easily. For $570 or so it solves the problem and is an easy installation. Comes with the baffle seal installed. Lycoming‘s cylinders don‘t have as much sensitivity to temps over 400, but I personally can’t live with that on any engine. Now at 370 vs 400 or 410 it is well worth the very small investment to cure the issue. I’ve owned the Husky 7 months now and couldn’t be happier with the purchase and this latest mod.
 

sublettfarms

New Member
I installed the Aviat rear #3 baffle mod on my A-1C and the temp drop was 30 deg easily. For $570 or so it solves the problem and is an easy installation. Comes with the baffle seal installed. Lycoming‘s cylinders don‘t have as much sensitivity to temps over 400, but I personally can’t live with that on any engine. Now at 370 vs 400 or 410 it is well worth the very small investment to cure the issue. I’ve owned the Husky 7 months now and couldn’t be happier with the purchase and this latest mod.
Do you have a part number for the Aviat baffle mod for number #3?
 

Ian Sage

New Member
Here is a technique that we have used for years to improve cooling on various aircraft. It is fairly time consuming but if you do it yourself to avoid the labor it is very inexpensive.

Keep in mind that the baffle components are intended to serve two purposes. First is to direct the flow of cooling air to the items you want cooled (cylinders, fuel pump, alternator, oil cooler, etc.) and second is to create a high/low pressure differential inside the cowl. Any air flowing from the upper deck (air inlet side) to the lower deck (cowl flap/outlet side) that is not routed properly is not only providing limited cooling, it is also evening the pressure differential, impacting overall airflow and cooling. In addition to using optimized baffle parts like the #3 baffle mod that is the topic of this thread, here is the process that we have had a great deal of success with.

1) Remove the cowl.
2) Get a flashlight.
3) Turn off the lights.
4) Using the flashlight, work your way around the engine looking down from the top while shining the flashlight up from the bottom. Any small (or large) gap or hole that air can escape through will be easy to spot and make note of.
5) Repeat looking up from the bottom with the flashlight on top. Make note of all of the places the light leaks through.
6) Use RTV silicon to plug up all of the holes that do not contribute to cooling the parts that need cooled. Common places are between the baffle and engine block, corners where the baffle makes turns, inter-cylinder baffles between 1-3 and 2-4, down where the baffle meets the engine block, and near the prop governor controls.
7) Place the upper cowl on the plane.
8) Looking in through the inlets at the front of the cowl, use the flashlight to identify any place where the silicon baffle does not press against the cowl.
9) Sometimes cutting a slit is enough to close up the ruffles potato chip style wrinkles.
10) For gaps that can not be easily sealed, apply enough RTV silicon to slightly over fill the gaps.
11) Put a layer of saran wrap over the RTV, then re-install the cowl.
12) Wait for the RTV to dry and peal the saran wrap off. The cowl should now have a perfect fit to the baffle.
13) Ensure that anywhere the silicon baffle overlaps it overlaps in a direction that will not cause it to flap open in flight.

If you aren't used to working with RTV in this way it can end up looking awful. Once you get used to working with it the result can be both very effective and very tidy.
 

Highroad

New Member
I just called Aviat today and Right Rear Baffle P/N 35380-504 was $1100 and a 4 week lead time! Guess I will re-read this thread and see what I can do on my own.
 

dogday

Active Member
Aviat's pricing behavior to correct a design problem they created does the opposite of any customer relations a good company would desire. Aviat could easily make a kit to fix the existing baffel for less than ten dollars at their cost.

Is this the type of opertunistic pricing a signal that Aviat will be.closing their doors in the near future and they are trying to squeeze the last dollar they can on their way out?
 
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